Sunday, August 5, 2012

Radiotron SE2A3



Revisiting the classic pentode driver
Radiotron's answer to the WE91A
Right before the end of the 20th century, a friend brought over a Japanese built pair of WE91A clones sporting top of the line Tango X-3.5S output transformers, matching chokes and power transformers, input tubes were original WE310As and 50s date code WE 300Bs, WE274B rectifiers, Allen-Bradley carbon and NOS wire wound resistors, Vitamin Qs for coupling and can type paper in oil caps for the power supply. The amp was huge easily dwarfing my JEL SE300Bdx monoblocks and the quality of construction and wiring was impeccable. Although this WE91A clone had great qualities in the midrange my friend was convinced my amps sounded better overall. Does that mean my amp design is absolutely betterDefinitely not! Only in the context of my system - Denon DL103R/SME 3012/Garrard 301 feeding Tamura TKS83 MC transformers into a JEL deluxe preamp, JEL SE300Bdx mono blocks driving a pair of Altec 755As in open baffles - since I optimized the signal chain so that it sounds good according to my standards. I told my friend that his decision to purchase those amps should be based on how it sounds in his system not on what he heard in my listening room.

That amp made a lasting impression and reinvigorated my interest in the classic pentode driver topology which has a lot of esteemed followers and practitioners. After my friend left that night I pulled out Joe Roberts WE91A article in Sound Practices Issue No. 1, reviewed my notes on the 6SJ7-->300B I briefly prototyped - slight upper midrange glare through the 755As, the top end was a bit rolled off with a tubby bottom. I was thinking....could it be the pentode 6SJ7 being a later compact version that kills the magic? Remember that even in the 90s WE310As were already unobtaniumSo I thumb through the pages of the RC-12 tube manual in search for a close equivalent and found the 6SJ7's grandfather, the 6C6 which has similar electrical specifications and bears a physical resemblance (BIG plate and grid cap) to the WE310A. The 6V filament is a convenient bonus. By that time, I've maximized the potential of all my triode input/driver circuits for the 755A/OBs and Altec 2-way. I pursued other interests and kept the 6C6 project in the back burner...


!!!WARNING!!! 

The voltages found in this circuit can be lethal, build at your own risk!!!



At the beginning of the year (2007) I was looking for a winter project that will not entail chassis building. I reread Joe Roberts article "I never met a 2A3 amp that I didn't like" SP15 and noticed a familiar looking SE2A3 amp schematic using a 6C6 pentode driver from the Radiotron, 3rd edition. He had good things to say about this circuit and it looked easy to graft this topology on my long-time SE2A3 test mule with Tango U808s. I took inventory of my tube stash and was frustrated to find just a single RCA 6C6, a couple of 6-pin sockets but needed 1/4" medium sized grid caps.

One chilly morning I downloaded an email from an internet buddy Sergey Didkovsky from Ukraine. We have exchanged emails a few years back when he was building the JEL classic 300B circuit. He was telling me about a pentode driven SE amp that he thinks sounds better. This was a fortuitous moment because the clairvoyant Sergey was talking about a Radiotron derivative. In the course of our correspondence he pointed out a quick source for additional 6C6s and grid caps with several links and attachments of Japanese and European DIYers' single pentode driver stage schematics including tips on operating points and parts tweaks.

I started my listening evaluation with this circuit and sent my impressions to Sergey for comments:
"Try please, to a little increase the cathode resistor (up to 1,2-1,5Kohm) and reduce anode resistor (to 75k-82k). It will allow to increase Ua up to 150V and to receive ratio Ua:Ug2 = 2:1 ratio. The sound should become more "interesting and old". That is especially good for jazz. Still mine 5 cents....use good NOS Oil capacitors in G2 circuit. I use TCC VisconolI think, oil caps in the grid - adds a bass. Reduction of the anode resistor - improves the hi range a little."
His use of adjectives "interesting and old" prompted me to get as close to the suggested 2:1 plate to screen grid suppressor voltage ratio as it seems to be a key ingredient for his recipe. So far I have achieved a 1.8:1 ratio and was still hearing a slight upper midrange glare that I originally attributed to the 6SJ7 years ago. The BIG plate = FAT midrange I was expecting from the 6C6 was already there but the glare did not disappear until I replaced the plastic 2uf cap with can type 2.8uf paper in oil caps for the screen grid (suppressor) and as Sergey said it did improve the bass. Maybe the paper in oil decoupling cap will give the same results with the 6SJ7....
"Thanks for your patience, not looking at my very bad English language...."
There is a saying that music is a universal language, Sergey apologized about his English but I assured him that his communication skills were fine. Certainly driven by his passion for good sound, I had no problems understanding his tips and it was quite evident that he has done some serious research, listening and is blessed with good ears!

With these thoughts in mind I did not argue and simply looked up to him as a mentor. In this revised circuit I captured the 2:1 ratio, to be exact 1.98:1 with 152V on the plate drawing about 1.8ma. of current. I changed the grid resistor from a 270k to 330k because not only does this make an easier load for the driver stage but from experience the sound becomes warmer as the grid resistor value is increased but only to a certain extent. If you exceed the maximum 500k grid resistor value specified in the tube manual for a 2A3 you might find the plates running away cherry red! So check your tube manual before messing around with this tweak on other triodes. A 220k will give more focus and detail but lower than that value the driver stage will have limited headroom. It will clip prematurely from not having enough voltage swing to drive the 2A3 to a full 3.5W output since the grid resistor is effectively in parallel with the plate load resistor.
Radiotron SE2A3 Power Supply

I am grateful to Sergey for sharing his experience saving me time and effort to build a classic pentode driven SE2A3 amp!




100Hz - both channels

1kHz - both channels

10kHz - both channels

Radiotron derived SE2A3 - 6C6 pentode driver, Tango U808
Power output = 3.8W per channel before clipping
Frequency response = +/- 1dB from 30hz - 15khz @ 1W
( - 3dB @ 20hz & - 5dB @ 20khz)

100Hz - top trace  = signal generator

1kHz - top trace = signal generator

10kHz = top trace = signal generator

JEL SE2A3dx - 76/6SN7 input/driver, Tango U808
Power output = 4.5W per channel before clipping
Frequency response = +/- .5dB from 20hz-20khz @ 1W
( - 3dB @ 50khz)

100Hz - both channels

1kHz - both channels

10kHz - both channels

JEL Simple 45 - 1/2 6SL7 [or 6SF5], Tamura F475
Power output = 2W per channel before clipping
Frequency response = +/- 1dB 20hz-20khz @ 1W
(- 5dB @ 30khz)
Compared to my favorite topologies in driving power triodes, this R-C coupled 6C6 pentode has slightly narrower bandwidth and as shown in the square waves, it has the slowest rise time and softest leading edge at 1khz and 10khz (in theory a more vertical rise time and sharper leading edge = faster transients and better high frequency extension) and pretty much equal at 100hz (less tilt = better bass response) with the Simple 45 having a slight edge but that uses a different OPT. To put things in perspective a 30hz-15khz +/- 1dB bandwidth is not a slouch if you refer to the table below.

I believe that good engineering aided by good ears is an important factor in building a musical sounding amplifier and cannot forget a post I read several years ago at a forum "...nice people build good sounding amps, bad sounding amps are designed by annoying ---..." and so it goes...kudos to the RCA engineer(s) in the 1930s who designed the Radiotron SE2A3, it is a musical amp!



12" Co-Ax Driver Survey


The Altec 604/605 Duplex series have significantly gone up in price but there are still sleepers out there. I'll start with the following vintage 12" co-axes worthy of consideration for not much cash outlay just to encourage people to be adventurous.

Jensen DL220 
Late model ferrite magnet equipped Jensen with a variant of the RP302 horn tweeter.

Excellent bass extension the equal of the Altec 414 in 614 cabinets. If the top end sounds a bit hot, don't be afraid to fiddle around with the L-pad. A narrow "suck out" in the upper mid-range leads me to believe that the woofer to tweeter integration can be improved. I have not found a way to access the crossover maybe it requires carefully peeling away the metal decal at the back of the frame. Sounds best driven by a classic topology amp like the 6C6-SE2A3. Those who are used to modern speakers will probably like the tonal balance and presentation of this driver over all the others in this survey.

University 6201
 Phenolic diaphragm horn tweeter with alnico magnets

I played around with crossover point ran the woofer full range but realized stock form is best! Those guys at University knew how to maximize the potential of the drivers in this unit. This is a sleeper with a "sweet" phenolic horn tweeter (4401) extended enough in the top end to make late 40s-50s Duke, Basie, Goodman and young Sinatra recordings come alive. There's a hint of vintage "phenolic" coloration when driven by the 6C6-SE2A3 amp which keeps it from the Altec class ameliorated by using a wider bandwidth amp like my SE2A3dx. Bass is slightly less extended than the DL220 but has good definition.

Lafayette SK58
I modified the crossover slightly to get rid of some upper midrange harshness caused by the lower limit of the cone tweeter by adding another 4uf cap in series with the stock 4uf paper in oil can type. This shifted the crossover an octave higher. The presentation is similar to the DL220 without the hot top end and less "snap" due to the cone tweeter.


Unbranded - alnico magnet with cone tweeter, maybe a Quam or Utah OEM?

Very good balance tonally with an almost seamless transition between woofer and cone tweeter but good only before ~ 10 khz and the response drops drastically. Really fine midrange, bass is tight and fast but has the least extension in this syrvey. At some point I might try using a phenolic cone horn tweeter like Jensen RP103 to add some air or maybe replace the tweeter with a Jensen P35. However for listening exclusively to 78 rpm this is perfect!

Further Thoughts

After several years of listening to various vintage drivers I can safely say that if coherence is a priority go for a full range driver or a 2-way co-ax with a cone tweeter for obvious reasons - much easier to mate two cones. A horn loaded tweeter gives a better sense of dynamic contrasts and the edge in transient response but be prepared to work on interfacing with the direct radiator woofer. It is always a compromise...



Associated equipment used:


Rek O Kut B12H, viscous damped tonearm 


GE RPX and VRII 


JEL mono preamp with variable EQ.


JEL SE2A3dx and SE10dx 


RCA Radiotron SE2A3


Reference speaker = Altec 605B Duplex



Sunday, July 8, 2012

Ortofon RMG309 fix


Simple fix for sagging counterweight on Ortofon tonearms


When I acquired my RMG309 a nylon tie was wrapped to support the sagging counterweight due to a deteriorated rubber tube that decouples the counterweight from the rest of the tone arm assembly. Since I was restoring an SME 3009 that had the same problem I ordered an extra set of rubber decoupling tube which fits the Ortofon but was too soft to support the more massive counterweight. What is required is a harder type of rubber tubing available from an auto supply.



Fixing the problem is very simple. To disassemble, loosen set screw [1] to release the spring, set screw [2] to remove the counter weight and then carefully pull out the short aluminum tube [3]. Remove all the deteriorated rubber inside the short aluminum tube [3] as well as on the other end towards the gimbal bearing tower [6]. Using fine sandpaper sprayed with a burst of WD40 clean the short metal shaft [4] until it is smooth and shiny. This will later be force fit into the new rubber tube [5] which is a 1/4" OD and 1/8" ID rubber tubing approximately 1 3/8" long I found at a local auto supply for .75 cents a foot. I did not bother to crazy glue the rubber tubing since there was enough resistance in the fit.



This is how it looks after reassembly.


Tuesday, July 3, 2012

G. A. Briggs - Evolution of the Wharfedale SFB3 Open Baffle

Lifted from a post at the High Efficiency Speaker Asylum

(If the person who originally uploaded these files sees this post,
please leave a comment and will give proper credit, thanks!)


Sunday, July 1, 2012

JE Labs collection of idler turntables

Cheaper alternatives to the Garrard 301/401 and Thorens TD124

Lenco


Lenco L75 repainted in Hammertone Grey
4-layer 3/4" plywood laminate plinth
Audio Technica AT1007 + SME 3012

Made in Switzerland with high quality main bearing and motor. Very quiet once serviced and refined sounding. Earlier models were branded Bogen in the USA. 

But just like the Rek O Kuts, condition of the idler wheel is of paramount importance to ensure up to spec performance.

Top - idler wheel from L75 on
Bottom - idler wheel from Bogen B60-B62 (L70)

In my experience the later type idler wheel (top) is very durable and have never had to have them refurbished. However the earlier type with a plastic wheel (found in earlier Bogen B60-62 models like below) has always been problematic (hardens with age) and sent them out for resurfacing. 

Bogen B60 (L70) in original base

I have high regard for the tonearm that came with the L70/B60-B62.

Bogen B61 (L70) in 4-layer plywood plinth
Velvet Touch viscous damped tonearm

This is a very refined sounding turntable!

Lenco B55 + Rek O Kut Gyropoise arm

Lenco B55 (budget model) has a lighter platter but has interchangeable parts (idler wheel and motor) with the heavier platter models.

Bogen B50-16

Early budget model with light platter, no interchangeable parts with later models.

More info at Lenco Heaven

Rek O Kut

Rek O Kut L34 in laminated plywood plinth
SME 3012 + Excel 801

For those who want more pace, rhythm and drive, consider a Rek O Kut. Big torquey motors and larger diameter main bearing albeit not machined to the same standards of quality as a Thorens, Garrard or even a Lenco.

See my ROK tips page.

Rek O Kut L37 + SME 3012

Rek O Kut B12H + Pickering
10" Argonne + 9" Velvet Touch

This is the main front end in my mono system!


Rek O Kut + ROK S160

Japanese Idler Turntables


Fine contenders to Bogen/Lenco and Rek O Kut, if you can find them;)

Shield MO 19 (Neat OEM) + Gray 212
and Grace G540

Shield MO19 + Grace G540

Realistic MKVII + Gray clone


4-speed idler driven 10" turntable with eddy current pitch control...


Lafayette PK180 

...it works, but more of a cool novelty item ;)