After building my first SE 300B amp in the mid 90s, I embarked on a
search for more efficient speakers to replace my Spendor LS3/5A. I had just
purchased a pair of Altec 755Cs at an Audiomart Show and was looking for a
suitable enclosure for the unit. Fortunately I came across an open baffle
article in Stereo
Sound "Tube Kingdom", Volume 3, 1996. I
don't read Japanese but these magazines (like MJ) have detailed pictures where
I get a lot of ideas for projects. The article was a "shootout" of
8" full range and coaxial drivers - Altec/WE755A, Altec 755C and 755E, Altec
409B and 409-8E, JBL LE8T-H, EV Pro-8A, as well as 15" coaxials- Altec
604-8K and JBL 2155H.
The Stereo Sound plan was in metric and used a material similar to a
butcher block around 3/4" thick. It was designed to take adapter plates so
that an 8" or 15" driver can be mounted on the same baffle. Knowing
that such material will cost a lot of money and hard to procure, I decided that
the easiest way to build my baffle was to convert the dimensions to inches and
make a quick trip to the lumber yard for 3/4" baltic birch plywood pieces
cut to size so that I can start listening. Here is my version of the Open
Baffle.
This open baffle was part of my Home Brewer Article published in Sound Practices Issue 17.
Around the same time I embarked on this project, my friend Ding acquired
a pair of Altec 604-8G and was also looking for a suitable cabinet. I
immediately faxed the plan to his office and that same weekend he called
stating that it was a success. He still uses the same configuration after
trying a couple of bass reflex cabinets through the ensuing years. Likewise a
few of my SETUP
friends have so far found no reason to
experiment further with enclosures.
Ding's Altec 604-8G |
I later found the June 1996 Hi-Fi News and record reviews, "Classic
Hifi Supplement" issue which reprinted a November 1956 review of the
Wharfedale SFB/3 designed by G.A Briggs.
Wharfedale SFB3
This baffle has almost exactly the
same dimensions as the Stereo Sound version, which also shared the proportion
of the original Quad ESL57, another favorite speaker from my PP amp days.
G. A. Briggs prototype
Brigg's approach was to use thinner sheets of plywood "sand-filled" in between for the baffle and utilized a 3-way configuration using 12" and 10" drivers with a 3" cone tweeter mounted on the rear top plate firing upwards.
There must be something behind the dimensions [golden mean, perhaps?] that make it work. Of course one cannot expect ultimate bass extension with an open baffle but the lack of cabinet colorations gives purity to the sound that many will find very appealing. It won't cost much and not too difficult to build so give it a try with your favorite driver.
FAQs about the OB plan"Form follows function"
1. Materials [acrylic, plexiglass, MDF and etc.] - visitors to this site
are already familiar with my adversity towards "dead sounding"
synthetic components. Solid wood or edge glue butcher block type material will
probably give the best sonic quality. I endorse 3/4" plywood because that
is the material I use and very satisfied with the sonic results. Besides it is cheap and if you like what you hear
and decide to experiment with your own exotic materials later not much is lost
with the initial investment.
2. Driver off set - I have read in various reference materials on audio
that off setting the mounting position [slightly off center] of the driver can
further reduce cancellation. I have not tried this because in the real world
unless your cutting tool is aided by computer and laser devices, it is almost
impossible to perfectly cut exactly at center. So I do not worry about it.
Free field response graph
how not to...
4. Tall and narrow baffle vs. wide and squat - the table above shows
that 35.5" will give a low frequency response sharply falling by 90hz but
this is free field - floor mounting provides an
additional barrier to the nominal 35.5" width which significantly
helps the low frequencies. Turn it around so that it becomes slimmer
(35.5" tall x 31.5" width) and hear how bass extension
suffers.....keep this in mind before designing a modern looking Magnepan style OB (see above). G.A.
Briggs was a fine engineer with good
ears that's why he designed his OB to mimic Quad ESL 57 proportions, or was it Peter Walker? I think they were acquainted and exchanged notes on their research and development.
5. What's the purpose of the 6" x 8" top plate? This may look like an after thought but omit this from the design and you lose overall definition from the bass to the midrange. It serves as a deflector and focuses the sound. The back legs and this top plate serve to further delay or disperse rear sound waves from reaching the front too soon which can result in bass cancellation.
A few drivers I have auditioned:
- 5"-6"
- Radio Shack 40-1354 [5 1/4"], Pioneer PIM16 [6", found inside old
Lafayette SK124 speaker cabinets], Diatone PM610B.
- My favorite 8" drivers - WE or Altec 755A,755C and 755E.
- Other
8" full range drivers - Altec 408 BiFlex, 400B, Jensen P8RX, P8RL + RP103, Stephens FR80,
EV/University SP8B and SP8C [Radax series],
Lafayette SK98, Philips/Norelco 9710M
- 10" - WE/Altec 756
- 12" - WE/Altec 728B, Altec 601Duplex, 412 and 419A series Bi-Flex, Electro Voice EV12TRXB,Lafayette SK58
RCA 501S1 - 12" co-ax
- 15"
co-ax - Altec 604B, 604-8G, 605, 602 Duplex, 415 and
420 BiFlex.
Altec 605B Duplex
- Other
possibilities include vintage units from Jensen (G610, H222, K210, and
etc.), University, Electro Voice and others.
- You can also check out old paper cone drivers from tube type stereo consoles, and table radios or vintage Japanese drivers that came with compact systems. I'm sure there are many sleepers out there and the possibilities are endless.
Great article. After reading it and some other material I bought a pair of EV 12TRXBs. Took me a year (did manage to get one Aristocrat cab for one of the drivers in the interim) but I finally got these open baffles made and have been enjoying them.
ReplyDeleteAlso, after reading your archive I got the 3rd ed. of Radiotron, Sound Practices archive, and have been reading old issues of Audio from the 1950s, so thanks for helping get me on a good path.
One note - your drawings don't show haw far in from the edges the stand pieces should go. I went with 2.5".
Thanks for pointing that out! In the original plan it was 50mm or roughly 2".
DeleteHappy listening!
JE
Hello,
DeleteA question about the sidepanels: would it affect if I start working with a perfectly square panel (31,5"x31,5") and put the sidepanels at the edge of the panel?
Hi Bert,
DeleteBy doing that, you are essentially altering the original design. Therefore I cannot predict the results.
Sorry I cannot be of further help ;(
JE
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI'm building these now. Question- what if the top plate extends the full width of the OB (i.e., to the vertical stands)?
Sorry I never tried a full length top plate.
DeleteJE
Danke für diesen Blog. Die Schallwand empfehle ich immer gerne weiter.
ReplyDeleteSie ist außergewöhnlich und in Deutschland bekannt.
Liebe Grüße aus " Good old Germany"
Kaspie
Kay Spiecker
Hi Kaspie,
DeleteI merely "rediscovered" Mr. G.A. Briggs open baffle from reading Stereo Sound. Kudos to him for bringing good sound to music lovers more than half a century later ;)
JE
Very useful article. Did you tried with stuffing rear side of the baffle or/and bottom?
ReplyDeleteI haven't tried damping the back panels but used the OBs on top of a carpet for many years.
DeleteHow did the Radio Shack 40-1354 sound? I still have an unmolested pair somewhere.
ReplyDeleteThe 40-1354 sounded good in the OB just like it did in the small bass reflex cabinet published in the David Weems book.
ReplyDelete